I went to an MZ rally at Masham in North Yorkshire on the Trophy Sport last weekend. I picked a good route taking in twisty and quieter roads once I had got through Keighley. Near Bolton Abbey I caught up with this fine thing, a home made Vincent Comet special. The rider pulled in to tighten a loose lever so I pulled in behind him and we chatted for a while. The bike is a Vincent engine, gearbox and frame member (which includes the oil tank), most of the rest is home made, the rear frame being loosely based on a Norton featherbed. The swinging arm, leading link forks and the operating levers on the front brake are all home made.
The rider likes MZs too and was very interested in my bike. It turns out he had just sold a 250 Trophy. He was on a ride back to Whitby after visiting a friend in Ilkley, so the bike certainly gets some use.
Not much further on I turned on to the really little lanes and completely by chance met up with my friend Ian out for a spin on his mountain bike. Here he is planning his next off road excursion as his bike is apparently very good on rough tracks.
A bit further on I stopped to take in the view. Countryside for miles around, just great. This was taken at Greenhow Hill, above Pateley Bridge.
And here is the view from the other side of Pateley Bridge with Gouthwaite reservoir in the distance. I never got round to taking any photos at the rally and the next morning it was pouring with rain, so no more photos from this weekend unfortunately.
Wednesday, 16 June 2010
MZ Trophy Sport now running much better
I raised the needle in the carburettor by one notch on Monday evening and went for a test run. That's cured it. The bike now pulls really well with no pinking and just a slight lack of willingness to rev as highly as perhaps it should. I think this may be due to a clogged up exhaust which I will attempt to clear by going for a long run on main roads to see if it unclogs itself.
I went up to Buckstones at dusk, a viewpoint only a few miles away and one of the highest points around, right on the top of the Pennines. I love it there and it is ideal for a quick spin out. The A62 can be seen in the distance. It gets quite high as it crosses the Pennines, but it can be seen that the Buckstones road is much higher still. A lorry driver there told me that years ago he and a few mates had a bike just like mine as a field bike. He seemed very pleased to see the bike.
Friday, 11 June 2010
A degree of success with the Trophy Sport
Last night, aided by my mate Jonny the 250 Trophy Sport was treated to a replacement chain and new needle, needle jet and main jet in the carburettor. The former has got rid of the tight spot and the latter has definitely made a great difference. Before the bike was always running rich and vibrated a lot. Fuel consumption was poor at well under 50 MPG. The needle was visibly worn and the main jet seemed to be the wrong size.
I had a good run out tonight up on to the tops of the Pennines and back and the bike runs a lot smoother, but now there is a degree of pinking at mid throttle openings. This I was expecting as this type of MZ engine has the spark plug in at an angle from the right hand side and pinking can be a problem. It is possible to ride round it, but it is an irritation. I may try and raise the needle a notch to see if that cures it, but I am now confident in using the bike and will see how it goes.
I had a good run out tonight up on to the tops of the Pennines and back and the bike runs a lot smoother, but now there is a degree of pinking at mid throttle openings. This I was expecting as this type of MZ engine has the spark plug in at an angle from the right hand side and pinking can be a problem. It is possible to ride round it, but it is an irritation. I may try and raise the needle a notch to see if that cures it, but I am now confident in using the bike and will see how it goes.
Wednesday, 9 June 2010
On the bench 3
This is my MZ TS 150 trail bike. It started off many years ago the same as the shed, previously pictured on here, a standard road going bike. When I got it the machine had been half converted into a trail bike. The previous owner had no further need for it and I am a sucker for a poorly motorcycle so I bought it. It's return to proper working order has been a labour of love for sure and is ongoing. It is no exaggeration to say that almost everything on the bike was either broken, worn out, bodged or a combination of all three. It got to my house under its own power, but frankly I was surprised it managed that short journey and if it was a horse, it would surely have been glue many years ago. Since that time various parts of the bike have been painted, a 21" front wheel and high level mudguard fitted and dozens of small repairs carried out before putting the bike through its MOT test and getting it back on the road.
I was skint at this time and so needed to fix or replace the totally worn out engine upon the cheap. I managed to buy a complete engine bottom end for a tenner with the side covers missing and worn out primary drive. The piston and barrel from the original engine were usable and I had enough bits to make up another primary drive and fit the engine covers in my spares collection. I had to buy a few circlips and gaskets and the total cost for an engine that ran pretty well was £13. Result. However it was all a bit too good to last and the the engine which had obviously been stood for years before I got to it started to pump gearbox oil out the breather hole in the crankcase after a few hundred miles. As this is an early 150 engine with the main bearings lubricated by the gearbox oil the main bearing seals are inboard of the main bearings and therefore it is necessary to totally strip the engine to change them. These seals have gone hard and are now leaking allowing the pressure in the crankcase to transfer to the gearbox and pump the oil out.
No longer skint, I paid to have another engine to be rebuilt and I got the bike up on the bench and resting on axle stands supporting the footrests (there is no centre stand on this bike) to swap the engine over. At the same time my electrical guru friend Nigel is to fit one of the electronic ignition kits to the bike to get rid of the 6 volt electrics and reduce the bike's maintenance requirements. I also have removed the swinging arm and painted it as it was getting a bit rusty.
I was surprised and rather fed up when the replacement engine was dropped into the frame to discover that the rear engine mountings were rather a slack fit (see photo below)
It turns out that the later 150 TS series engines have a narrower crankcase casting at the rear, hence the large gap which needed to be filled. I had no idea that this was the case and that there was a difference between the engines but if nothing else it shows that after over 20 years of MZ ownership I still have plenty to learn.
It turns out I needed 4 of these beasties, 2 of which are shown here. That sorted it, a spacer each side, top and bottom rear engine mounts.
The next problem was I discovered that the back sprocket cover and speedometer drive gear which is enclosed inside the cover were for a 250 with a 16" rear wheel instead of the 18" wheel fitted to the 150 TS bikes. This explained why the speedometer was 10% out. I have managed to get a replacement drive gear (the two are different and therefore not interchangeable) but I do not have a sprocket cover and I have recently found out that they are made from that rare material unobtanium. I am not used to this with MZs, most parts are available off the shelf and there is a good chance that more will be made available as pattern parts at some stage in the future, but in the mean time I will have to find a second had one which is proving a little difficult. No doubt there is one somewhere.
I am very aware that there has been a lot on here about spannering and very little in the way of rides out in recent weeks. I did have a good ride out a week or two back getting more RBR clues but other than the clues themselves I did not take any more photos. I intend to remedy this soon, watch this space!
I was skint at this time and so needed to fix or replace the totally worn out engine upon the cheap. I managed to buy a complete engine bottom end for a tenner with the side covers missing and worn out primary drive. The piston and barrel from the original engine were usable and I had enough bits to make up another primary drive and fit the engine covers in my spares collection. I had to buy a few circlips and gaskets and the total cost for an engine that ran pretty well was £13. Result. However it was all a bit too good to last and the the engine which had obviously been stood for years before I got to it started to pump gearbox oil out the breather hole in the crankcase after a few hundred miles. As this is an early 150 engine with the main bearings lubricated by the gearbox oil the main bearing seals are inboard of the main bearings and therefore it is necessary to totally strip the engine to change them. These seals have gone hard and are now leaking allowing the pressure in the crankcase to transfer to the gearbox and pump the oil out.
No longer skint, I paid to have another engine to be rebuilt and I got the bike up on the bench and resting on axle stands supporting the footrests (there is no centre stand on this bike) to swap the engine over. At the same time my electrical guru friend Nigel is to fit one of the electronic ignition kits to the bike to get rid of the 6 volt electrics and reduce the bike's maintenance requirements. I also have removed the swinging arm and painted it as it was getting a bit rusty.
I was surprised and rather fed up when the replacement engine was dropped into the frame to discover that the rear engine mountings were rather a slack fit (see photo below)
It turns out that the later 150 TS series engines have a narrower crankcase casting at the rear, hence the large gap which needed to be filled. I had no idea that this was the case and that there was a difference between the engines but if nothing else it shows that after over 20 years of MZ ownership I still have plenty to learn.
It turns out I needed 4 of these beasties, 2 of which are shown here. That sorted it, a spacer each side, top and bottom rear engine mounts.
The next problem was I discovered that the back sprocket cover and speedometer drive gear which is enclosed inside the cover were for a 250 with a 16" rear wheel instead of the 18" wheel fitted to the 150 TS bikes. This explained why the speedometer was 10% out. I have managed to get a replacement drive gear (the two are different and therefore not interchangeable) but I do not have a sprocket cover and I have recently found out that they are made from that rare material unobtanium. I am not used to this with MZs, most parts are available off the shelf and there is a good chance that more will be made available as pattern parts at some stage in the future, but in the mean time I will have to find a second had one which is proving a little difficult. No doubt there is one somewhere.
I am very aware that there has been a lot on here about spannering and very little in the way of rides out in recent weeks. I did have a good ride out a week or two back getting more RBR clues but other than the clues themselves I did not take any more photos. I intend to remedy this soon, watch this space!
Monday, 7 June 2010
One thing leads to another - more bother with the Trophy Sport
I took the Trophy Sport to Leeds on Saturday to have a new pair of tyres fitted. I go to Startrights for this, it's a proper honest traditional bike shop run by a very good friend of mine.
http://www.startright.co.uk/
I can recommend them for good service.
I took each wheel out in turn and had new tyres put on as the others were well over 10 years old, had gone rather hard and in the case of the rear tyre, well worn. However, while the back wheel was out I checked the sprocket and found play on the bearing it turns on. The proprietor, Graham, insisted that I use their ramp and so I stripped it all down and Graham supplied a new bearing. To fit it, the chain has to be removed and the the sprocket pulls out of it's cover. It's a fiddly and very messy job to fit it all back together too as the chain runs in rubber gaiters and has to be threaded through them with the aid of a bit of wire. Everything is covered in black grease so inevitably I get covered in it too. The gaiters are probably the originals and are perished and so cracked open once disturbed and will need to be replaced. The chain seems to have a tight spot on it too now which can be heard as a click every lap of the chain. I have oiled it and will take it for a run soon to see if it has freed off, if not it is new chain time too. Just lately this bike fettling lark has got very expensive.
To be fair, the bike is 40 years old in a couple of month's time and has spent most of the last several years laid up so problems are inevitable. I'll get there with it I am sure.
http://www.startright.co.uk/
I can recommend them for good service.
I took each wheel out in turn and had new tyres put on as the others were well over 10 years old, had gone rather hard and in the case of the rear tyre, well worn. However, while the back wheel was out I checked the sprocket and found play on the bearing it turns on. The proprietor, Graham, insisted that I use their ramp and so I stripped it all down and Graham supplied a new bearing. To fit it, the chain has to be removed and the the sprocket pulls out of it's cover. It's a fiddly and very messy job to fit it all back together too as the chain runs in rubber gaiters and has to be threaded through them with the aid of a bit of wire. Everything is covered in black grease so inevitably I get covered in it too. The gaiters are probably the originals and are perished and so cracked open once disturbed and will need to be replaced. The chain seems to have a tight spot on it too now which can be heard as a click every lap of the chain. I have oiled it and will take it for a run soon to see if it has freed off, if not it is new chain time too. Just lately this bike fettling lark has got very expensive.
To be fair, the bike is 40 years old in a couple of month's time and has spent most of the last several years laid up so problems are inevitable. I'll get there with it I am sure.
Wednesday, 2 June 2010
Trophy Sport progress
I have sorted the problem with the forks out (see previous posting). It turned out to be not the forks at all. After much examination I discovered that if I rested the front wheel against next door's garage base then compressed the forks as much as I could, I got a clonk, as well as when the forks were returning. I eventually realised that the clonk was the new headstock bearings not adjusted right. I think the bottom cup was not fully pushed home in the bottom of the headstock and this has moved producing unwanted free play in the bearings. I chickened out from hitting any harder than I had as I was worried about breaking it, and for some reason MZ saw fit to make the cups a very tight interference fit in the frame.
I reset the clearances and now all seems to be well. The bike is still running rich though, as confirmed by the colour of the spark plug, I suspect the needle in the carburettor is badly worn, it does not seem to be making contact all the way round when the throttle is fully closed. I will have to change it soon when I can afford to.
I reset the clearances and now all seems to be well. The bike is still running rich though, as confirmed by the colour of the spark plug, I suspect the needle in the carburettor is badly worn, it does not seem to be making contact all the way round when the throttle is fully closed. I will have to change it soon when I can afford to.
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